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Dean's S15

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Yeh I see that mate, but have heard of folk re-fitting the shroud as well, I would like mine to go back on just to make the bay a little neater, but not sure it will work with the twin fans
 

DeanS15

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busy day today :)

fitted the front arb, engine subframe, steering rack with uprated bushes and got the front end mechanicals 99% re-fitted. it takes a lot longer when you're trying to do it without chipping stuff....chose a nice blue from the colour chart at the powder coaters - looked a lot nicer on the chart than it actually is but it's not too bad...

arb and brace



front suspensionand hub assembly on both sides back together and roughly set up









engine bay tidied up - starting to look like an engine again :) intercooler pipes and whatnot connected up and tightened, re-rcirc pipework mounted on some brackets i fabbed up





absolutely knackered.....at least the end is in sight :D
 

DeanS15

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Yeh I see that mate, but have heard of folk re-fitting the shroud as well, I would like mine to go back on just to make the bay a little neater, but not sure it will work with the twin fans
cant see why it wouldnt work with twin fans - they are quite shallow and there should be room in the there if you mount them straight on the rad. the biggest problem is fitting the shroud, it's very tight in the to put it in and out as it catches on the aircon and all the pipework must be removed around it.....
 
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Looking awesome as always dude,did you get the apex arms zinc coated on the threads? Good idea if you did as I keep my car proper clean and they are still rusting a bit had to cover them now.
Also the bracket you made to fix the recirc really tidies it up mate looks much better!
Do you have alumiium pulleys ,or have youonly changed the top one?
Have you had your teins painted or are they hsd's?

Made a lot of progress mate,cars gonna be amazing when its finished !
 
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DeanS15

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thanks again mate, only the water pump pulley is alloy, i will upgrade to a full set eventually. as for the arms, i had all the nuts and removable sections plated yes, and just smeared grease over the threaded sections on the ends and inside the arms - i also had the rods and ends powdercoated in blue as the original finish chips easily and will rust quickly, but as one end is bushed, i had to leave that end as it comes. i have tein flex suspension and the front bottom mount had paint flaking off around the brake line bracket quite bad so i had that and all four springs powder coated, but it wasnt worth just doing the two bottom mounts in green so chucked them in with the black items :)
 
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That's why I asked as it was done blaCk thought you may have swapped for hsd's.
I think I will probably get my arms all painted with everything else then,didn't know there was a problem with them chipping,just that they rusted around the threads good to know as I intend to strip my underside after the summer and have all arms and subframe etc powdercoated to just future proof it and get it back mint!
At least the end is in site now,you must be chuffed with how its turned out
 

DeanS15

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i am mate - but obviously it's a learning process and there are things i would do differently had i known :)
 

DeanS15

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cheers mate :) - just waiting on a hose from hel performance and finish painting my diff and driveshafts and then it can all be wrapped up. honestly, i have to say, i've never recieved such unreliable service from people as i have on this build. hel performance: they dont send a part out, then they say it's been mislayed, now i'm waiting for a new one. it's only the main brake line front to back - but the subframe etc cant be re-fitted until thats fitted......

then theres stuff like powdercoating which they did at thier own leisure.....or the arch liners i had sorted off sxoc only to be ignored for about 2 weeks by the seller......

if i didn't have to rely on any of these, it would of shaved so much time off the whole thing :(
 

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Dean I thought youd already got all the brake lines from DB-Power?

Wont be long now im sure!
the main one was a little long, i sent it back to dan and he forwarded it to the supplier(hel) but they are slow, unreliable and the service from them has been terrible....

so frustrating, honestly, they have been a nightmare.

looking forward to it all being done though - i've been putting off the diff and driveshafts till last as they are such a boring and awkward job.
 

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Gutted to hear about HEL customer service... they are a decent brand so disappointed to see they're so hard to deal with! :wack:


Lookin' really smart now mate, coming along nicely!! :D
 

DeanS15

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thanks guys, feels like a big weight slowly being lifted as i put each bit back on lol - on a side note, does anyone have eperience of fitting the k-sports, i noticed they have two bleed nipples. are they any harder to bleed than a normal caliper?
 
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No worries chap, bleed the outer one first then the inner as you do with average callipers. working from the calliper furthest away from master cylinder first then work your way to the nearest. And make sure you get the grooves in the discs the right way as K-Sport seem to be different to all other makes. the grooves should go from the hub and sweep forward to the outer of the disc. and get used to a light brake foot, especially if you have gone for Performance Friction pads! They are awesome.. or DS2500..
 

DeanS15

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cheers mate ;)- yeah whats the deal with the vanes? surely you can haqve the discs running with the grooves running away from the pad as per all others? cant see that making much difference will it?
 
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In theory yes it should be fine, but it's to do with the heat generating. If you look at the webbing in the middle if the disc it runs opposite to the grooves on the outer and if you put them on the other way they will not have the cooling effect they need. it's usual the outer grooves follow the inner web. but K-sport have done them the other way on. and K-sport say to fit them this way so not to void any warranty etc best to do so.
 

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looks like they're going on that way round then - thanks mate :)
 
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