Andeep's 1999 Silvia Spec R "S15 FTW"

[andeep]

Hey guys!

Well since all the cool kids have one of these threads, I thought I would do one too!

Well the car came from Japan very standard, only had the following:
Airfilter
No name exhaust
Turbo Timer
Boost Controller

Well have just been building up the car to drift spec over the past 6 months, and this is where I'm currently at with it:

-Engine-
HKS Mushroom Air Filter
Apex Front Mounted Intercooler
Apex 56mm Aluminium Radiator
D1 Spec 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap
Japspeed 3” Decat
Blitz Nur Spec-R 3” Catback Exhaust
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump - Hardwired
HKS EVC Boost Controller @ 0.7bar
Blitz Full Auto Turbo Timer
Pigeon Mod
Rocker Arm Stoppers
Air Con deleted

-Transmission-
SR20DET 5-Speed Conversion
Driftworks Lightweight 5.2KG Chromoly Flywheel
ACT HD 6-Puk Paddle Clutch
Driftworks Poly Gearbox Mount
Nismo Clutch Pivot
Redline MT90 Gearbox Oil
HEL Braided Line from Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder
Dildo Shifter

-Brakes-
ABS deleted
Master Cylinder Stopper
Motul Dot 4 Brake Fluid

-Suspension-
HSD HR 8/6kg Coilovers
Driftworks Rose-Jointed Tension Rods
Driftworks Rose-Jointed Camber Arms
Driftworks Rose-Jointed Toe Arms
Driftworks Rose-Jointed Traction Rod Arms
Driftworks Front Lower Arm Polybushes
Driftworks Rear Lower Arm Polybushes
Driftworks Toe + Camber + Traction Rear Hub Polybushes
Driftworks Subframe Locking Collars
Apex Steering Rack Bushes
Steering Angle Spacers

-Interior-
Bride Zeta III Sport Driver and Passenger Full Buckets
Sparco 4-Point 2” Driver and Passenger Harnesses
Sparco Monza Steering Wheel with HKB Steering Boss
Fire Extinguisher
Blitz Boost Gauge
Switch Panel in Dash

-Exterior-
Full Aero Kit with Stock Front Bumper
Fog Lights deleted

Well enough talking, here's some photos! Bare in mind its very standard looking!

Next on the list is to change the brakes to some R33/R34 GTR Bembos and stick a hydro in, but gonna need some new wheels to accommodate the big disks and calipers. Any suggestions on some rotas (I'm not spending big money on wheels :ghey.

:thumbs:

 

[tooley]

Beautifull car dude and a very nice spec!!!

what wheels you going to get?

 

[andeep]

Cheers matey. Really wanted to get the suspension/brakes and transmission sorted before I even touch the engine. After I've got my brakes I will sort out some rose jointed lower arms, diff, and then move onto engine.

I'm not too sure what to get to be honest. I really like the look of the Rota GTRs or even the Grid Drifts, but not too sure. Will probably just go for some 17s as they will clear the brakes and tyres will be cheaper

 

[vinnie]

Wow man that is sick. Love the oem look on the outside!!

 

[Hypnotik]

Can you explain what the "Pigeon Mod" is?

 

[RyanH]

Pigeon mod is where you remove the stock recirc dump valve and block it off so you get compressor surge / flutter / pigeon noises

 

[andeep]

As RyanH said, it's just where you remove the stock recirc valve and block off all the piping. Reason why you do this is the stock recirc can sometimes leak, so removing it completely saves some boost leak. Also it sounds cool as you get a rally car type of flutter where the turbo is spinning in the opposite direction (compressor surge).

But there are also some negatives; the car can run really lumpy, you will over-fuel a lot on the super rich stock map and will get pops and bangs + flames all the time with a decat. Also there is some speculation that you can kill your turbo as you are making it spin in the wrong direction.

 

[craig8585]

I don't think the turbo spins in the wrong direction, it is still spinning correctly but the compressed air it creates has no-where to go, so surges back past the compressor. Not that it really matters anyway

 

[andeep]

I don't think the turbo spins in the wrong direction, it is still spinning correctly but the compressed air it creates has no-where to go, so surges back past the compressor. Not that it really matters anyway

Ah, I always thought it was the turbo spinning in the wrong direction!

So is the flutter noise due to the air moving past the compressor in the wrong direction while the compressor is spinning normally?

 

[craig8585]

That's what I've always thought it is! The exhaust gas it still passing through the turbine which is keeping the turbo spinning in the correct direction. If the compressor was spinning the wrong way so would the turbine, and that wouldn't be good!

If you imagine when you let off the accelerator, the throttle body closes. The turbo is still spinning at full speed at the instant you close the throttle, delivering charged air which now has no-where to go. The deceleration of the turbo is rapid, one of the many reasons why it's bad for the turbo but as the exhaust gas is still powering the turbine it is not enough to stop it or spin it backwards. That's my theory anyway

 

[LuPix_S15]

Awesome mods dude and I'll have a set of 17x9.5 Rota GTR's up for sale soon if JameS15 doesn't take them off my hands lol


The pigeon mod and any force back of compressed air definitely goes all the past the compressor and out of the air filter because when you do it on mine, you can actually hear the air being pushed all the way out of the induction cone when it goes fff fff ffff fff fffffffff

 

[Adam L]

It's called compressor surge.

The built up pressure that the engine hasn't been able to digest. When you have a pressurised system and there's nowhere for the air to go, it finds the only possible route to escape. Running a dump valve, for instance, deletes surge as it sits closer to the throttle.

The chatter you are hearing is simply the air being chopped up by the compressor wheel. The turbo doesn't stop spinning... Think about it. How is a floating shaft assembley spinning at 150k+ rpm going to be stopped by air? It's physically impossible.

A quick example would be ''What happens when you speak or blow into a desk fan''. The fan doesn't stop because it's being driven., exactly like the turbo is but via the exhaust gases.

I just thought i'd add that, as alot of people misunderstand

 

[LuPix_S15]

But it still does sound like a pigeon lol


Nice analogy about blowing into a desk fan!

 

[Adam L]

I've had people say i've got a rattle snake under the bonnet

 

[TriniGT]

The problem is that the air rushed back to the compressor side and applies a thrust to the compressor wheel. In some instances the thrust may be a bit that it pushes the wheel inward causing the "in and out" shaft play on the turbo to increase and inevitably the destruction of the turbo.

 

[andeep]

Made a bit more progress today and did a bit more work on getting rid of the ABS.

I was going to use braided lines to get rid of the stupid ABS, but to have the lines custom made would have cost £95+, and the ones from dbpower are still £80. So figured I would have a go at making my own copper lines. I wanted to use braided as they look a hell of a lot more neater and the fittings are more robust and easier to install.

With the copper lines, the recommendation is to install a T-Piece near the brake master cylinder and run a single line to the left side caliper. Problem with this is that the left side line will be a lot longer than the right one, I doubt this makes any difference at all, but is a point to note. Also it's really really hard to route new tubing in situ and make it look good. So what I did was cut the stock brake lines, and joined them to a T-Piece that I bolted in to the bulkhead where the ABS module originally as.

T-Piece:

Then I used some female and male unions to extend the stock lines to the T-Piece. I used a bubble flare on the stock lines, and a double flare on the new copper lines. I know this probably isn't the best way to run the lines as it puts in more joins, which means there's more chance for the braking system to leak.

So the plan is to bleed the system, and have someone to stomp on the brakes while I check every connection for leaks. If there is a leak, I will probably just run a new single line to eliminate using any of the stock brake lines. I don't anticipate that there will be leaks as the flares are quite good, and also I've tightened the unions a fair bit to allow the mating surfaces to deform and mate correctly. And if for some reason that fails, I will just buy some braided lines.

Trying to flare the stock kunifer lines in situ is a pig of a job! When I flared the copper lines I could just hand tighten the flare bar and flare away without the line slipping. But the kunifer ones kept slipping and had to use pliers to tighten the wing nuts. In a vice its easy, but in situ makes it very difficult indeed!

 

[Shushrut]

im a novice at this but how to you recirc DV off and what do you end up blocking it with?

 

[andeep]

im a novice at this but how to you recirc DV off and what do you end up blocking it with?

You just remove the DV and all the associated pipework. Then just measure up with size of the holes you need to block up and order some suitable sized 'bov bungs' off ebay. Just coat it in a bit of instant gasket and use a jubilee clip to secure them. Also there's 1 vacuum line that attaches to the DV, just coat a small bolt with instant gasket and use a cable tie to secure it.

I can't remember the size of the bungs, but just do search on here or SXOC for the correct size.

Also a lot of people just use random things to block the holes up, things that fit like the end of broom handles.

 

[LuPix_S15]

Nice update on the ABS dude... I'm thinking about ABS removal. Is it supposed to give much better brake feel?

 

[andeep]

Nice update on the ABS dude... I'm thinking about ABS removal. Is it supposed to give much better brake feel?

It's meant to make quite a difference and give a really sharp pedal feel. Also if you spin out drifting and go backwards, as you try and brake nothing happens as the ABS cuts in and gets all confused, so basically you lose all braking backwards. This happened to be before and I ended up hitting my exhaust tip on something.