loads of places mate. The s14 filter is identical. You can order a box from perfect run. I use the sard magnetic filters they last for 10k kms before they require changing.
servicing info (oils and quantities, sparks etc.)
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
sorry to ressurrect this guys but a local place to me stock millers oils only and swear by the quality, so i went for thier 5w40 fully synthetic. what are your opinions on this/anyone used it?
info is here http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_AUTO_INDEX.htm
info is here http://www.millersoils.net/1_Millers_frame_AUTO_INDEX.htm
Dear Dean,
Its indeed sad that many ppl just follow the hype and put stuff in their car just because they think is good. Like the dude who puts only motul in his car somehow gets a placebo effect that his car is performing better than the bloke who puts in regular oil.
The SR is a little over a decade old now. And it was a reliable powerhouse then as it is now and was being coaxed to put out large amounts of power even back in the day when fully synthetic oils were beyond the reach of the working class man. To me whats more important is getting our viscosity right. Colder climate owners need a narrower working temperature band whereas tropic thunder heroes (nice movie waiting to go see) like me need a bigger working band as tarmac temperatures here can touch 40C. Semi or fully synthetic just warrants how often you need to change the oil. And yes, fully synthetics will do in excess of 5k kms before needing a change.
As for the plugs...call me old fashoined but like some of you may know by now, im quite the OEM-mer. So if a book says use platinum i use platinum. Havent really seen the need to upgrade to silver or iridium plugs and the hype about iridiums offering better sparks on higher boost runs is just unfounded. Im still using platinums. To me, whats more important is the plugs' thermal values. Plugs, like oils have an optimum working temperature range that is arbitarily assigned from 5-9. A cold plug has its value further up the scale and a warm plug further below. Running high boost increases the working cylinder head temperature so it pays to have a cold plug that helps to dissipate the temperature well and not melt/foul the electrode. Im using grade-8 NGK R7118 platinum plugs, gapped to 0.7mm and its just wonderful for the daily commute, M3 bashing and generally psychotic behaviour around roundabouts typically associated with the average silvia driver
Engine oil: Mobil 1 fully syn 0w-50 3.5 litres usually
Gearbox + Diff oil: Castrol LSX 90-140 2.5 litres (g) 1.5 litres (d)
Its indeed sad that many ppl just follow the hype and put stuff in their car just because they think is good. Like the dude who puts only motul in his car somehow gets a placebo effect that his car is performing better than the bloke who puts in regular oil.
The SR is a little over a decade old now. And it was a reliable powerhouse then as it is now and was being coaxed to put out large amounts of power even back in the day when fully synthetic oils were beyond the reach of the working class man. To me whats more important is getting our viscosity right. Colder climate owners need a narrower working temperature band whereas tropic thunder heroes (nice movie waiting to go see) like me need a bigger working band as tarmac temperatures here can touch 40C. Semi or fully synthetic just warrants how often you need to change the oil. And yes, fully synthetics will do in excess of 5k kms before needing a change.
As for the plugs...call me old fashoined but like some of you may know by now, im quite the OEM-mer. So if a book says use platinum i use platinum. Havent really seen the need to upgrade to silver or iridium plugs and the hype about iridiums offering better sparks on higher boost runs is just unfounded. Im still using platinums. To me, whats more important is the plugs' thermal values. Plugs, like oils have an optimum working temperature range that is arbitarily assigned from 5-9. A cold plug has its value further up the scale and a warm plug further below. Running high boost increases the working cylinder head temperature so it pays to have a cold plug that helps to dissipate the temperature well and not melt/foul the electrode. Im using grade-8 NGK R7118 platinum plugs, gapped to 0.7mm and its just wonderful for the daily commute, M3 bashing and generally psychotic behaviour around roundabouts typically associated with the average silvia driver
Engine oil: Mobil 1 fully syn 0w-50 3.5 litres usually
Gearbox + Diff oil: Castrol LSX 90-140 2.5 litres (g) 1.5 litres (d)
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
thanks for the info mate. ill stick with the 5k/6 month changes!
so heres one to make you laugh (pretty basic guestion), which mark exactly is the fill level on the dip stick? is it the top of the hatched area or the second (upper) ridge on the stick......dont want to overfill!
thanks again people.
so heres one to make you laugh (pretty basic guestion), which mark exactly is the fill level on the dip stick
? is it the top of the hatched area or the second (upper) ridge on the stick......dont want to overfill!thanks again people.
S
StarletRick
Guest
i use royal purple in the engine, box and the diff.
i wub it.
i wub it.
Im using Comma Fully Synth 5W40 at £28 for 5 litres from my local auto shop after i dumped my oil at the weekend which was a week old due to a cracked sump plug thread. Dont see the need for super expensive oil if changing regulary.
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
i was gonna go for the comma mate, theres a jayar components round near my work - by the way if thats what your using then why not get the planet 5w40, its only 18 quid and its the comma oil in thier own branded bottle! only reason i went for the millers is because it was only 4 quid more and has a slightly higher spec through the additives - thats it.
im still stuck as to the fill mark on the dipstick though, any ideas?
im still stuck as to the fill mark on the dipstick though, any ideas?
G
gunner93
Guest
I had Mobil 1 Fully Syn 5W50 in my car (because it was 26% discounted at Carrefores). I wanted to take it up to 10,000km or 1 year. But after 7 months (5,000km), the oil was mat black most probably due to running rich (as you all know by now from the pics of my plugs in my other thread). So my thinking would be more towards using semi-syn and run up to 5000km or 6 months instead.
Bro,
I have been using Elf 10W-40 semi synthetic all the while and change them every 5000km or even earlier...so far, no issues at all...
:thumbs:
Its your engine la bro. Change to vx rom and you'ii be sorted. I usually change about 5000kms and when change its still golden black color. Elf is damn good as well. Whatever you do stay away from Motul. They're horribly overprcied and not worth the time.
I totally agree about Motul...probably they only are <5% better than other reputable brands...i feel they are overhyped and not worth the premium...as long you use a good quality oil from a reputable brand, i guess there should not be a issue...
:thumbs:
I use Caltex Semi-Syn 10W-40 for about 2 years in my S15. I change it around 4500 or 5000, So far so good. I use this because i can get wholesale price. Really save alot money.
I had something similar in there mate the week before which my mum can get for trade price. Just that my sump plug (APEX magnetic sump plug) thread broke in the sump hole when i tightened it up after draining out some oil and ended up dumping the whole lot. So i just popped round the corner and brought it from there as i needed the car running as i was supposed to be leaving for JAE.i was gonna go for the comma mate, theres a jayar components round near my work - by the way if thats what your using then why not get the planet 5w40, its only 18 quid and its the comma oil in thier own branded bottle! only reason i went for the millers is because it was only 4 quid more and has a slightly higher spec through the additives - thats it.
im still stuck as to the fill mark on the dipstick though, any ideas?
Darren_S15
Club Event Orgainser
Sorry to drag this up again.
Going to be changing my engine oil very soon.
Been reading all the posts on here and I think I'm going to go for a midrange fully synthetic 10w40 as I just use my car on the road, but might do a track day at some point this year.
Just wondered where people get their oil and filters from usually?
Cheers
Going to be changing my engine oil very soon.
Been reading all the posts on here and I think I'm going to go for a midrange fully synthetic 10w40 as I just use my car on the road, but might do a track day at some point this year.
Just wondered where people get their oil and filters from usually?
Cheers
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
jayar components mate, or any other motor factor for that point. costs about 4 quid for a blueprint filter which is basically a nippon denso company anyway so the quality is good. ive used them for years now on this and my fto
Y
yc86
Guest
I'm running on Mobil1 5W50 too.. just put it in today and it's goood.
Planning on changing every 3 months cuz i think i can barely hit 5000km in even a year.
don't know what junk the previous owner put in, but the vibration's all gone now.:thumbs:
btw, the service manual says it'll take 3.5L of oil, but i put in 3.5L today and it's above the FULL mark. (above the F word).
I've read that overfilling is very bad as it puts extra load on the rear seals, and leads to frothing.. but is above the F word considered overfilling? =/
Planning on changing every 3 months cuz i think i can barely hit 5000km in even a year.
don't know what junk the previous owner put in, but the vibration's all gone now.:thumbs:
btw, the service manual says it'll take 3.5L of oil, but i put in 3.5L today and it's above the FULL mark. (above the F word).
I've read that overfilling is very bad as it puts extra load on the rear seals, and leads to frothing.. but is above the F word considered overfilling? =/
(Sorry for bumping an old thread, better than starting a new one right?)
I've read this thread and was just wondering what the difference was between the 5W40, 10W50 etc. was?
I have a Spec R turbo S15 and its due for a service, just getting an idea of which oils and what quantities I should go with.
I've read this thread and was just wondering what the difference was between the 5W40, 10W50 etc. was?
I have a Spec R turbo S15 and its due for a service, just getting an idea of which oils and what quantities I should go with.
If you read Post #2 of this thread it should give you a good idea of which oils to go for
Darren_S15
Club Event Orgainser
The first number is the low temperature rating and the second number is the high temperature rating.
So 5W40 will start to be effective at a lower temperature than 10W50, but 10W50 will be more effective at higher temperatures.
Unless you are going to track your car 5W40 or 10W40 will be fine.
The more specialised the range the more you will pay.
I run 5W40 Halford own oil in mine with a blue print filter and just change it once a year, only used on road.
Probably dont need to even change it that often as I only do about 2,000 miles a year :rotfl: