Internal injuries is all I've got to say. LOL
Not sure on this but I've heard that having too hard suspension is no good for the chassis. Damper is designed to absorb the shock from the road and if u dial in too hard, the stress will divert to the chassis. You will also put more stress on the other suspension components as well. No point increasing the stiffness if you have stock chassis(not seam welded), stock swaybars etc etc. It's how coilovers like F12R10 springrates will actually worsen the handling on a stock car. They compliment each other to give that on rail performance. Not just the coilovers. But good luck in adjusting your collies. I'm jealous.
Thats why I don't upgrade to poly bushes! Mines got Nismo Tune suspension with yellow springs and blue dampers with fixed compression & rebound; A cusco front strut and the standard rear brace.
Front:
Caster N/A
Camber -1.9
Toe - 0.5mm/side
Rear:
Camber -2.4
Toe - 1.5mm Toe In
Find this gives almost best set-up for me on the road with excellent high grip while cornering and great handling at high speed and lane changing - makes for safe driving on the road (have to avoid pot holes like a jedi though) and great fun drifting on track. Tyres are by far the most important thing though, biggest reason is weather (both meanings) the tyres you have are track (road legal) orientated, wet or dry (various brands) and the compound. I have tried my fair share of tyres and 'cos of the weather here its hard.
The above set-up looks odd but for the road/track its best combo for me. The fronts still wear the outter edge quite bad so I'm going another 0.2 on the neg camber but may be happy with .1 as it gives a decent contact patch for braking.
The rears make it jump around in low grip conditions and it was wild driving on snow few weeks ago kinda hoping off cats eyes and it would need a tiny bit of opposite lock over and over - pretty good fun actually.
Just changed tyres from conti top line to barums (conti second brand) but only on the rear and they feel like the compounds the same but 'cos the pattern is a wet tyre (the premiums are dry focused and look a bit F1 with not much channelling just grooves) it gives loads more gipe cos they heat up more. They've got loads more grip than the Yokos I had on before - loads more. Contis still on the front to keep the braking feel as the barums move around loads in the dry. They have a softer sidewall too so effectively puts the balance a little to the front (cos of the overall spring rate change).
(snow driving was with yokohamas which legally needed changing soon at the time).
215 front 235 rear which also makes huge difference to be able to run more neg camber without too much trade off - cept on the snow - lol
Due to all the different factors including and importantly how quick you go through tyres each set-up can be different and good - all my geometry is within whiteline suggestions though.
