DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
again no comment 
i was hoping to avoid all this embarrassment
i was hoping to avoid all this embarrassment
LuPix_S15
Banned Toyota Lover
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lol we know you love it too much to leave it all mate
Great to see lots more work planned although rather you than me haha... I've only got enough patience to jetwash the underside once a year and spray some WD40 over coilovers now and then. Rust will be my evil friend over time!!
Great to see lots more work planned although rather you than me haha... I've only got enough patience to jetwash the underside once a year and spray some WD40 over coilovers now and then. Rust will be my evil friend over time!!
glad to see she is staying in good hands,after you have done this the carwill be totally sorted,l;ook forward to the write up as i am looking to do mine soon,started to get my first bit of rust underneath at the rear now so even though i prefer how it looks now gonna have to underseal it,a s you say rust is like cancer ,look forward to your progress matey!!
Hahah! If anyone wants to buy it next year, you'll have to be quicker!Becoming like an Annual thing now
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
little update:
been going through checking off all the bits i have so far for the winter strip down - hopefully after fitting this lot the car should be tighter than a nuns ladybits :nod:
the bent bolt at the bottom is a test i did, i was told that i should use 12.9 grade high tensile bolts for everything when i put it back together and did some research, turns out that though 12.9 is stronger than the 8.8 i will use, but 12.9 is more likely to shear rather than bend if it takes a hit, also 12.9's arent plated and rust quite quickly....i thought i'd see how much you can bend an 8.8 before it will start to split and gave up when it got to as it is in the pic, took too much effort. also decided on hard lock nuts instead of nyloc as the twisting movement of the arms could possibly loosen a nyloc.....
end of september the thread will be updated daily hopefully with some step by steps as i dismantle and re-assemble
been going through checking off all the bits i have so far for the winter strip down - hopefully after fitting this lot the car should be tighter than a nuns ladybits :nod:
the bent bolt at the bottom is a test i did, i was told that i should use 12.9 grade high tensile bolts for everything when i put it back together and did some research, turns out that though 12.9 is stronger than the 8.8 i will use, but 12.9 is more likely to shear rather than bend if it takes a hit, also 12.9's arent plated and rust quite quickly....i thought i'd see how much you can bend an 8.8 before it will start to split and gave up when it got to as it is in the pic, took too much effort. also decided on hard lock nuts instead of nyloc as the twisting movement of the arms could possibly loosen a nyloc.....
end of september the thread will be updated daily hopefully with some step by steps as i dismantle and re-assemble
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Quality stuff. Looks like you're doing pretty much the same as me over the winter then. Decided against the alloy subframe bushes and got the DW poly ones instead too. Sticking with the alloy diff mounts though What are the rubber collars for on the right of the pic? ARB?
What are the rubber collars for on the right of the pic? ARB?
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
they're the steering rack mounts mate, but the winter job will only take me up as far as the bulkhead
Looking good mate! Think they are the same arms I have on my car,really dials it all in well! I heard that some arms can rust where the adjustable part is,any idea if that's true and if so what can be used to stop it rusting?something like wd40,look forward to the progress,not long to wait now!
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
craıg. ı forgot to mentıon that ı have found a supplıer for energy full set of poly dıff bushes that wıll shıp to the uk.....mıght be worth a few of us gettıng together and orderıng together to save a fortune on postage - 27 dollars for the kıt of four bushes before postage....also stuff lıke poly droplınks etc are lıke 12 dollars to add to an order - so much cheaper than here. just a thought as ı thınk replacıng those wıll be cheaper than cleanıng them up etc...Quality stuff. Looks like you're doing pretty much the same as me over the winter then. Decided against the alloy subframe bushes and got the DW poly ones instead too. Sticking with the alloy diff mounts though
excuse any poor spellıngs please. ı,m on a foreıgn keyborad lol :thumbs:
Ooh sounds like a bargain to be had mate I would be interested in diff bushes and drop links,have a full set of bushes coming for the rest of the underside except for these! if you decide to go ahead with it put my name down as a definate mate!do you know what colour they aRe?
I'm going for solid diff bushes myself, but poly subframe bushes. I'm looking to buy all of the other bushes soon though, so if you can send me some more info we can work out what it'll cost.
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
they can be got in red or black, the black being impregnated with graphite - but its not an articulated mounting so i'll just go with the red
i've still been hearing reports of noise and knocks with the solids so i'm definitely set on these now mate. heres the app list from energyI'm going for solid diff bushes myself, but poly subframe bushes. I'm looking to buy all of the other bushes soon though, so if you can send me some more info we can work out what it'll cost.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Nissan+240SX+1998:thumbs:
Yeah, they are nice and cheap. It would be a nightmare to do a GB on them though as everyone would want a different combination of bushes. Feel free to organise one yourself, but I have learnt my lesson.. until next time!
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
well after ordering with them today its clear now that a group buy just wouldnt be neccesary mate, the prices are fantastic. i just ordered the full set of diff bushes, a set of rear droplinks and bushes and the front lower arm inner bushes and on priority mail they came to 60-00 all in........perhaps if it all works out and the parts fit perfectly which i'm sure they will then i'll stick the link in the useful section
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
craig, for your info mate, the bushes are here and they are pretty tough poly, definitely far superior makeup than the driftworks poly - no bubbles etc.....
LuPix_S15
Banned Toyota Lover
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Sounds good mate! Can't wait to see the pics of when they're fitted
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
stripped off the underside yesterday afternoon, arb, prop, exhaust, brakes, heatshields, everything basically except for the subframe and tank. subby will be coming off tonight and hopefully i'll stick the first lot of pics up
Sweet dude ,look forward to the pics of your progress!
DeanS15
My car is so clean you could eat off it.
right, lots and lots of pics of the progress. considering the horror stories i've read about studs snapping, bolts shearing etc its been really easy and straightforward....i guess its because its spent most of its life in japan....the only thing that got me was one of the hub nuts needed the impact gun to undo, and the actual subframe and diff caught me by surprise, i expected them to be heavy, but they are really heavy...anyway, i hope some of you may get something out of this, if i make a mistake, maybe someone can avoid it in future etc
right, heres the thing that made me want to start this job - on the surface everything looked in really good condition under there, then i removed the rear tow eye and noticed this
and behind the exhaust heat shield, this
its not the end of the world as its only surface cosmetic (it looks much worse in the flash on the pics), but i dont want to leave it to grow. as i was tackling the polybushes and arms anyway i thought get it all out of the way at once.
first up, split pins and hub nuts, brakes off and out of the way
prop, arb and exhaust off
prop is in very good condition for 10 yrs old
little ziptie on the diff and corresponding prop holes to line up later
again, clean but its creeping in around the seams, won't take much work at this early stage of rot
after removing a few awkward clips etc the subframe was ready to drop off with a plank of wood supporting it and a trolley jack. this thing is bloody heavy
bit more cosmetic grot, again, on the seams and edges, but can't complain so far as its actually looking pretty good chassis wise which is what matters to me. i cleaned and taped up the subframe mounting studs to protect them and now my next job is to strip the subframe down into all the little bits.....so far all in i've spent about 2 1/2 hours yesterday and about an hour today so progress is good.
i've been bagging and labelling all the fastenings as i go along, so when it comes to putting it all back together, it should be like meccano :wack:
i'll be updating this as i go along, as often as possible - hope its of interest and people may find it useful when i get into the polybushing, assembly etc later on :thumbs:
right, heres the thing that made me want to start this job - on the surface everything looked in really good condition under there, then i removed the rear tow eye and noticed this
and behind the exhaust heat shield, this
its not the end of the world as its only surface cosmetic (it looks much worse in the flash on the pics), but i dont want to leave it to grow. as i was tackling the polybushes and arms anyway i thought get it all out of the way at once.
first up, split pins and hub nuts, brakes off and out of the way
prop, arb and exhaust off
prop is in very good condition for 10 yrs old
little ziptie on the diff and corresponding prop holes to line up later
again, clean but its creeping in around the seams, won't take much work at this early stage of rot
after removing a few awkward clips etc the subframe was ready to drop off with a plank of wood supporting it and a trolley jack. this thing is bloody heavy
bit more cosmetic grot, again, on the seams and edges
, but can't complain so far as its actually looking pretty good chassis wise which is what matters to me. i cleaned and taped up the subframe mounting studs to protect them and now my next job is to strip the subframe down into all the little bits.....so far all in i've spent about 2 1/2 hours yesterday and about an hour today so progress is good.i've been bagging and labelling all the fastenings as i go along, so when it comes to putting it all back together, it should be like meccano :wack:
i'll be updating this as i go along, as often as possible - hope its of interest and people may find it useful when i get into the polybushing, assembly etc later on :thumbs:
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