The GTT will be getting a GTR exterior conversion and an RB26 swap with some mild mods, looking for a responsive setup of about 500HP. We'll see how it goes but right now my concern is getting the Silvia road worthy.
Well after months of having the car up on stands I decided to bite the bullet and put her on the ground and somewhat set my ride height. Funny thing is that the adjustment of the coilovers to obtain the proper ride height had me adjusting nearly all on one side and half on the other which I found was weird. It still needs adjusting properly but it is much better than it was and the rear, especially the passenger rear, has some serious camber which when I get some time I will sort out. What was even more exciting was that I drove the car in my yard, no brakes at all so with the help of the handbrake I was able to manouvre the car to a better spot. All I can say is the 4.37 diff is quite aggressive. Finally in the last five years this was my first time actually reversing the car and parking her. Even had wifee in for the first move, she was actually half proud of me. Only took a couple shots and no I have still not sorted the brakes but I did mount the Brembos to the front of the car, still waiting to pickup the rear setup but for now I may just run stock Nissan two pot calipers.
I need to get proper brake hard lines as the ones I have are too short and too long, I may cut the longer ones and flare the ends to suit, we'll see. I have a plan to somehow align the front of the car properly which entails elongating the fender holes and sliding the front nose section of the car to the passenger side, in so doing leaving the upper area in the same position and the lower area by the headlight in the proper positon. We'll see how that one goes. Anyway here are some pics, does not look like much propgress but I still need to wait on the painter to give me a repsray. Once that is completed then it is time for the power FC, Z32 MAF, boost controller, turbo timer and defi gauges and an oil cooler and a road tune followed by a dyno tune to clean up anything.
When she first came off the stands, yes the front needed some lowering
Did some adjusting on the coilovers but I wanna let it settle first then I will adjust some more,
I need to get proper brake hard lines as the ones I have are too short and too long, I may cut the longer ones and flare the ends to suit, we'll see. I have a plan to somehow align the front of the car properly which entails elongating the fender holes and sliding the front nose section of the car to the passenger side, in so doing leaving the upper area in the same position and the lower area by the headlight in the proper positon. We'll see how that one goes. Anyway here are some pics, does not look like much propgress but I still need to wait on the painter to give me a repsray. Once that is completed then it is time for the power FC, Z32 MAF, boost controller, turbo timer and defi gauges and an oil cooler and a road tune followed by a dyno tune to clean up anything.
When she first came off the stands, yes the front needed some lowering
Did some adjusting on the coilovers but I wanna let it settle first then I will adjust some more,
Well finally installed the rear brake calipers, not brembos but nissan two pot calipers for now until I get the Brembos. I filled the Skyline MBC and began the bench bleeding process, was a real bitch of a job as the MBC was installed already. I took two old ABS lines and attached them to the MBC and bent the cut ends into the MBC reservoir as low as possible so that when the brake fluid is filled the end of the lines is below the fluid level. You need to make sure the fluid is always above the end of the hardline and then simply keep pumping the brake pedal and watch the bubble come out.
It took me countless tries, even had the wifee take a swing at it and then after about fifteen minutes of doing it the pedal became harder and harder. The trick now was to have wifee hold the pedal down while I disconnected both cut lines and quickly reattach the original brakelines. Got that all done so now all left to do is to bleed the entire brake system which is from furthest from MBC to nearest. I will tackle that tomorrow. Car is pretty much done for now until it goes to the shop to paint, at that point I will help with tape off and remove what needs removing and then have the car done and brought back home and then finish install everything along with whatever I have waiting for her. I am getting there once brakes are doen tomorrow I will feel much more confident, this DIYer is turning pro :lol:.
It took me countless tries, even had the wifee take a swing at it and then after about fifteen minutes of doing it the pedal became harder and harder. The trick now was to have wifee hold the pedal down while I disconnected both cut lines and quickly reattach the original brakelines. Got that all done so now all left to do is to bleed the entire brake system which is from furthest from MBC to nearest. I will tackle that tomorrow. Car is pretty much done for now until it goes to the shop to paint, at that point I will help with tape off and remove what needs removing and then have the car done and brought back home and then finish install everything along with whatever I have waiting for her. I am getting there once brakes are doen tomorrow I will feel much more confident, this DIYer is turning pro :lol:.
Nice mate , What colour are you repraying in?
Quick Update, NO MORE E-BRAKING, BRAKES HAVE BEEN BLED!!!!. Note-to-self, don't order so much brake fluid. I picked up three bottles of Motul 5.1 from a friend thinking that hey that should be enough to do the job, in the end only used one bottle and that is with topping up at the end. First job was the MBC which with the help of wifee went sweet as at the time had no other help. One thing I forgot in all the comotion was to clean the R32 GTR MBC Reservoir so took a couple of napkins and tried cleaning the thick residue of crud to the bottom, a lot of gunk came out but I couldn't get it all. After bleeding the MBC the fluid quickly turned darkish in colour so the plan was to bleed all the dark fluid via the calipers.
Yesterday after running around thanks to my friend Richard :lol:, no sweat he's a good youth, I came back and decided to tackle this bleeding thing and hopefully put it to rest. Remember furthest from MBC to nearest. Started by first checking the MBC to see if it had sufficient fluid and then gave it some extra. Next step was to pump the brakes now to actually allow fluid to move from the MBC reservoir through the dry brake lines as they have been disconnected for some five odd years and I thought that they would surely be somewhat clogged. So as my friend pumped the brakes the fluid level dropped and I continued topping up until the pedal became firm and then I started the bleeding process.
Passenger rear first, remember pump a couple of times then hold the pedal firmly and then crack the nipple and try to lock off before the pedal hits the ground and repeat. To minimize mess I had a bottle and some clear silicone air hose connected to the nipple and placed in the bottle and tried to have the bottom of the hose under the level of the brakefluid in the bottle. Got the rear done no probs, the front are Brembo R34 GTR Calipers so they had two bleed nipples, I am guessing one nipple per side of pistons, tackled those first inner and then outer and in no time I couldn't believe how easy they bled. Only thing different was that the Brembos nipple needed a 11mm spanner unlike the rear which use 10mm. Eventually once I get my rear Brembos I will make the swap but for now I need the car up and running to go to the shop for a respray. After that I took the battery from the good ole faithful bluebird and dropped it in the trunk and connected and bounce starter and just lightly came off the brakes and tip the gas and then applied brakes and what do you know we have brakes without the ebrakes
. Quickly the rusted rotors came back to life. The brake pedal I am sure will need a second bleed and the brake pedal is a slight bit spongy but I definitely have brakes and will be more than enough to take her to the shop safely. Once the brake pads have bedded and the rear Brembos swapped on I will bleed again but this is one less thing on the list. Next thing hopefully today is to firther trim the front bumper and get the bonnet locking again to go to the shop and then stuff the sideskirts in the car along with whatever else needs going and await the call to bring her down. All my gadgets will go on afterwards no sweat. Wanna try and get the Defi DIN gauges ordered in time for the car coming home, exciting times I tell ya!!!.
Yesterday after running around thanks to my friend Richard :lol:, no sweat he's a good youth, I came back and decided to tackle this bleeding thing and hopefully put it to rest. Remember furthest from MBC to nearest. Started by first checking the MBC to see if it had sufficient fluid and then gave it some extra. Next step was to pump the brakes now to actually allow fluid to move from the MBC reservoir through the dry brake lines as they have been disconnected for some five odd years and I thought that they would surely be somewhat clogged. So as my friend pumped the brakes the fluid level dropped and I continued topping up until the pedal became firm and then I started the bleeding process.
Passenger rear first, remember pump a couple of times then hold the pedal firmly and then crack the nipple and try to lock off before the pedal hits the ground and repeat. To minimize mess I had a bottle and some clear silicone air hose connected to the nipple and placed in the bottle and tried to have the bottom of the hose under the level of the brakefluid in the bottle. Got the rear done no probs, the front are Brembo R34 GTR Calipers so they had two bleed nipples, I am guessing one nipple per side of pistons, tackled those first inner and then outer and in no time I couldn't believe how easy they bled. Only thing different was that the Brembos nipple needed a 11mm spanner unlike the rear which use 10mm. Eventually once I get my rear Brembos I will make the swap but for now I need the car up and running to go to the shop for a respray. After that I took the battery from the good ole faithful bluebird and dropped it in the trunk and connected and bounce starter and just lightly came off the brakes and tip the gas and then applied brakes and what do you know we have brakes without the ebrakes
. Quickly the rusted rotors came back to life. The brake pedal I am sure will need a second bleed and the brake pedal is a slight bit spongy but I definitely have brakes and will be more than enough to take her to the shop safely. Once the brake pads have bedded and the rear Brembos swapped on I will bleed again but this is one less thing on the list. Next thing hopefully today is to firther trim the front bumper and get the bonnet locking again to go to the shop and then stuff the sideskirts in the car along with whatever else needs going and await the call to bring her down. All my gadgets will go on afterwards no sweat. Wanna try and get the Defi DIN gauges ordered in time for the car coming home, exciting times I tell ya!!!.
this is a great write up, i read it all for the first time today and have to say, wish you were a mate of mine, i got a whole list of stuff that needs doing!! good work and impessive skills there my friend :thumbs:
Thanks, I can't take all the credit as several shops attempted the conversion and the last guy did most everything right. I just need some fine details fixed and then a respray and I should be good. MY colour I am thinking over but I am more than likely going with black.
black is easily the fastest colour. gets my vote!
Well some updates, it's been some time and took the car to get a full respray. I am extatic as it has come out pretty darn good. There are a bit of things to be done still but thus far I am happy. Things on the To-Do List are, engine and colour change to be registered, Z32 MAF, Apexi Power FC, 850CC injctors, GT2871R or if I have the cash GT3076R, Refinished Intercooler Piping (Chromed), Blitz Turbo Timer, Blitz Boost Controller, Defi Gauges, I may swap out the Silvia Steering wheel for a Nardi, EP Racing Carbon Stereo Surround, Stereo/Amp/Speaker Install, Custom Pillar Pod Setup, Front Windscreen Molding to be replaced, Custom Bride Interior Door Panels and rear seat stitching.
So far here is the current spec and please excuse the pics as they are off my BBerry,
Engine -
S15 SR20DET with Six Speed Box
Greddy Intake Manifold
Greddy Oil Sump
Oil Filter Relocator
Blitz FMIC
Custom Intercooler Piping
HKS Intake Piping
HKS Mushroom Filter
Suspension and Braking -
GTR R34 Front Brembo Brakes
300ZX Two Pot Rear Brake Setup with R33 Handbrake Cables
Earls Braided Lines
R33 Automatic LSD 4.36 Diff
Driftworks CS2 HSD Coilovers
Driftworks Front Tension Rods
SPL Lower Control Arms
Driftworks RUCAS
Driftworks Traction Rods
Driftworks Toe Rods
Driftworks RLCAs
Driftworks Subframe Bushings
R34 GTR Wheels
Exterior -
Full S14.5 - Full S15 Exterior Conversion
S15 Doors
S15 Quarter Glasses
Nismo Quad Vented Carbon Bonnet
S15 HID Xenon Headlights
Origin Stylish Bodykit
DMax Tinted Tailights
Origin Side Markers
Tinted Rear and Quarter Glasses
Interior -
Full S15 Interior
EP Racing Carbon Fibre Stereo Surround
Nismo Shift Knob
Nismo Instrument Panel
Blitz Turbo Timer
Blitz Boost Controller
Apexi Power FC
Some Pics, again sorry about the phone pics.
So far here is the current spec and please excuse the pics as they are off my BBerry,
Engine -
S15 SR20DET with Six Speed Box
Greddy Intake Manifold
Greddy Oil Sump
Oil Filter Relocator
Blitz FMIC
Custom Intercooler Piping
HKS Intake Piping
HKS Mushroom Filter
Suspension and Braking -
GTR R34 Front Brembo Brakes
300ZX Two Pot Rear Brake Setup with R33 Handbrake Cables
Earls Braided Lines
R33 Automatic LSD 4.36 Diff
Driftworks CS2 HSD Coilovers
Driftworks Front Tension Rods
SPL Lower Control Arms
Driftworks RUCAS
Driftworks Traction Rods
Driftworks Toe Rods
Driftworks RLCAs
Driftworks Subframe Bushings
R34 GTR Wheels
Exterior -
Full S14.5 - Full S15 Exterior Conversion
S15 Doors
S15 Quarter Glasses
Nismo Quad Vented Carbon Bonnet
S15 HID Xenon Headlights
Origin Stylish Bodykit
DMax Tinted Tailights
Origin Side Markers
Tinted Rear and Quarter Glasses
Interior -
Full S15 Interior
EP Racing Carbon Fibre Stereo Surround
Nismo Shift Knob
Nismo Instrument Panel
Blitz Turbo Timer
Blitz Boost Controller
Apexi Power FC
Some Pics, again sorry about the phone pics.
S
S15 SILVIA
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amazing work dude
WOW! I can't rememebr ever going through an entire thread with my mouth wide open! Wow! I can't begin to imagine the patience this project must have taken.. especially to see it through to the end!
As for the reasoning behind the project.. insane!
As for the reasoning behind the project.. insane!
What I don't understand is that the sides are s15 and rear.. Normally s14.5 means it's a s14 with just a 15 front end..
Did you fit all the panels to a s14 then?
Good work btw looking badass!!
Did you fit all the panels to a s14 then?
Good work btw looking badass!!
S
S15 SILVIA
Guest
You could almost say that was an s15 from the factory, and no one would know!
Looks great in black too.
Looks great in black too.
Yep all the panels were used from an S15, basically it is an S15 but it has S14 flooring, firewall and VIN. Everything body-wise from an S15 is a bolt on. Took her for a drive yesterday on the highway for the first time and it feels nice with the R33 4.36 diff. I needs a major camber and alignment job but I had a big grin no doubt. Still much to do on her but the accelleration is really nice out of the hole, note to self, I need to get proper T-bolt clamps and thicker silicone hoses as from the moment I started pedalling it the intercooler pipe popped .
.
S15AK
⭐
Well done, looks spot on. Lots of hard work has paid off
