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Radiator Drain Plug

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kazama

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Nothing is really going to help in stop start traffic except more cooling fans.

A FULL cooling panel (not those metal template ones) will also help reduce the engine bay temperature whilst in motion (as well as improve air flow through the IC and rad). Fitting an SS mani and bigger turbo is inevitably going to raise engine bay temperatures. All those OEM heat shields bolted to the OEM mani and turbo are there for a reason...

Thats what I thought, cooling plates will do not much as compared to fans, vents in the bonnets, etc. Amused_15 posted this and I was like ?????

A more feasible solution would be the cooling plate as its made mostly of aluminium, even the slightest forward movement will result in cooling action sufficient. Im still on my standard s15 radiator and its up to the job with my coolong plate. stable 80 degrees in traffic where ambient temperatures are near to 40 degrees.
 
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Kazama san,

Er yes, im still on my stock s15 radiator (Calsonic-Kansei) and previously the needle was dead centre on the halfway mark on full traffic. I even (call me crazy if u will) purposely drove to Pudu area and wedged me julie in between two buses on one of those hot sweltering days with no appreciable wind movement just to see if those claims by ppl that the s15 overheats in traffic is true and well im convinced is absolute rubbish.

I got myself an arc radiator cooling plate recently and with it the temp has dropped a tad lower. So maybe my instruments could be faulty? :confused:
Also im still maintaining my WMIC, albeit an ARC replacement with larger capacity so i guess i have better airflow to my radiator. My comments were purely based on my personal experiences.

PS. Any of u guys know someone who wants to sell a 1995+ Nissan 300zx fairlady twin turbo pls PM me. Mate of mine is desperate for it
 
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kazama

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Amused_15,

I didn't say that s15s overheat in traffic.
My S15 overheated while spirited driving a few times with the stock radiator.
The needle wouldn't go up during traffic. I know that for sure.
But one funny thing is that the needle went down a little from centre,
after I changed to a greddy radiator w/o cooling panel. And it was cool ever since.

The reason I'm a bit confused is that, previously you said that the cooling panel
would help in stop and go traffic, but i think the cooling panel would only come
in play during cruising, ie. above 80km/h. Anything better than stop and go traffic would be good.

p/s. hope you'll have time for a small mini TT/convoy/cruise in March.


Cheers buddy.
 
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Hmmz, thats interesting...you say it overheats during spirited driving? Then maybe i already have an uprated radiator im unaware of. I drive to Penang and JB often doing not less than 170kph and it doesnt overheat..spirited la you know..changing lanes, kissing beemers arses and getting mine kissed by wirolutions :) (did that sound gay?)

Thats why i said it helps, cos to me, each time i move a bit the needle also drops a bit, then when stop it returns to dead centre with the a/c on.

Mini because so few members in malaysia meh? :D hehe.
 
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kazama

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I think my 15 overheats after spirited drives because I have a SS manifold, hks gtrs turbo, 1.2 bar, etc.
Theres a lot more heat in the engine bay. sigh. stock manifold the best !

Yeah quite a few active members, but all are up for the convoy.
 
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gunner93

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Nick,

From Alan's previous S15 dyno result comparisons, stock mani had better low end up to 5500rpm. Beyond this, the SS tube mani climbed higher. Thats why I still stick to my cast iron stock mani for streetability...
 
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Depends on how the ss manifold is designed though. The one like nick's is more for top end power and will suit his gtrs nicely.

If you want low end, stick to those that has similar design as the stock manifold such as the tomei expreme.

But nothing beats the stock manifold for low end grunt
 
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kazama

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Yup I agree with both of you. Also, nothing beats the stock manifold for its ability to be more reliable too.
I'm talking about cracking, etc. Mine is cracking because I welded my external wastegate pipe onto it.
I think it has something to do with the thickness of the manifold and also the weight of the external wastegate.

You don't want to do this to a SS manifold that doesn't already come with a ext wastegate outlet pipe.
If the SS manifold is custom made then it would be slightly different though.

Also note that different manifolds can drastically change the sound of the engine. :D
I haven't heard the Expreme yet though. The AEM one on an SR makes it not sounding like an SR. :)
 
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sillbeers15

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if you guys are looking to generate more torque and mid-end instead of high end power....select the suitable cams, dial in the adjustable cam gear and go for the 4-2-1 exhaust manifold instead of the 4-1 manifold.

I'm getting 630nm of torque.....from setup.
 
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