Headlight Restore and Trunk Rattle Fix Video

[Jitsu-no-Jeff]

Hey guys! Just posted a new video to the channel.

As per usual, it's just me stumbling around trying to figure things out.

 

[hugh janus]

I used the 3M kit (although mine came in a box with a number of different grades of sandpaper and a compound that went everywhere) but the headlights came out really well, I didn't have to clear coat either, I do however agree the sanding by hand was required on the smaller contours of the lens.

 

[drifter]

You’ll only need the clear coat to stop the lights going cloudy again. I used the kits maybe twice, after that they went foggy really quick. Last time they were cleared and they’re still good as new. I’m pretty sure they were coated with 2k paint and from a spray gun so maybe that’s the key


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[Joeh]

Before redoing them, get the wet sanding pad (high grit) and do some light wet sanding and then polish again with the compound, this should be fine on the clear coat, it should shine up nicely

 

[Jitsu-no-Jeff]

Really appreciate all your replies! Thanks, guys! Will give it another go once the weather clears up here (typhoon incoming...).

 

[bzh kevin]

My boost gauge has a similar issue . The needle slowly goes all the way up then all the way back down when it decides to stop working and never works again unless I turn the car off and on again (usually the car needs to cool down for it to work again) .

I tried changing the vacuum hose as well but it didn't help . If it was a vacuum leak issue I guess the needle would just seat on 0 instead of -7 anyway.
One interesting thing I notices is that you can recreate this fault by unplugging and re-plugging the gauge while the engine is running so I suppose the problem is just due to an intermittent bad connection .

 

[octo]

@bzh kevin & @Jitsu-no-Jeff Had the same issue with the boost gauge, apparently the sensor box goes bad. which was the case on mine. i had a new defi set ready to go in so replaced it with that. But apparently you can open it up and check/resolder the connections inside (these go bad from time to time).

might be worth a shot sensor should be located near the fusebox on the strut

 

[bzh kevin]

awesome! I will have a look at the sensor when I have a bit of time .

 

[hugh janus]

one other thing you might want to consider, is when you jack the car up use the towing eyes (2x front) 1 rear and I personally wouldn't put axle stands under the chassis rails or the sills

 

[Jitsu-no-Jeff]

My boost gauge has a similar issue . The needle slowly goes all the way up then all the way back down when it decides to stop working and never works again unless I turn the car off and on again (usually the car needs to cool down for it to work again) .

I tried changing the vacuum hose as well but it didn't help . If it was a vacuum leak issue I guess the needle would just seat on 0 instead of -7 anyway.
One interesting thing I notices is that you can recreate this fault by unplugging and re-plugging the gauge while the engine is running so I suppose the problem is just due to an intermittent bad connection .

Exactly the same on mine! Will try swapping a new one as per @octo 's recommendation.

@hugh janus Cheers for the hot tip! I'd be curious to see a pic of where you place your jack stands.