dude y're talking ****e (in the nicest possible way).You shouldnt need to skim your fly unless something bad has happened in there! Its not a good idea to skim the stock flywheel.
Mine was in literally perfect condition when i did my clutch, but I changed it as a precaution before my remap. The original clutch had about 2/3 material left after 60k.
You may well need to skim the fly exactly as andeeps pics and report from the engineers proves nothing serious needed although "mild clutch kicking" doesn't exist...
..and there is no WAY you got through 1/3 of the material with it being perfect. if it looked perfect after 60K then how many mm of metal would 1/3 of steel be? :rotfl:....unless your oem clutch was fitted with a lathe
clutch kicking is soooo much worse than slipping a little at idle - even holding it on a hill for 30secs is going to be way better than a clutch kick at 6krpm :ROTFL:Thats overheating of the fly which means it might be warped. Could be caused by holding it on the bite on hills or a slipping clutch etc..
Now you're talking sense...That kit sx-si is selling would probably be your best bet and like he said, would probably work out cheaper than a stock replacement clutch kit with a solid fly. I wouldnt want to skim the dual mass fly. It's easy to skim a solid fly but wouldnt like to try doing a twin mass.
"mild" hahahahahaOnly thing I can think of is some mild clutch kicking. But for all I know, it could have been in bad condition from the previous owner in Japan.
it was you probably had a fair life too. I did my OEM clutch after 1000miles*. kicking creates massive amounts of heat much more severe than "normal" city, old granny driving. A OEM clutch driven badly by a granny may half its life. Regular 'mild' kicking is going to divide it by 10 man!! I guess you normally kick around 3.5-4krpm or more and with standard torque it probably takes 2+sec to actually stop slipping and match engine speed to gearbox. Thats over 2,000 revolutions skimming the flywheel transmitting peak torque from your engine....HOT HOT HOTWhat could have the previous owner done to cause that much heat damage?!
*when I got her from Tokyo. But dude that doesn't mean its new. I felt gutted but then its just tough luck. Most of her is perfect.
Got the flywheel back from machining, they took 1.225mm off it. The flywheel was warped quite badly and the surface had a bow in it. There are heat marks in it, but the surface is perfectly flat.
Before:
Good pics and nice to prove to people that of course you can skim the thing it just depends on your equipment. Mine was identical. I put that down to driving it for 100 miles before getting it changed. Sometimes still wanting it to be ok and driving like normal giving full acceleration; it slipping around peak torque and looking at the revs thinking "oh bugger it really does need changing" as they slowly dropped to meet gearbox speed.
I upgraded to a Exedy Stage 1 (the 3 puck sports type) which was lovely for kicking; really helped the diff work well and slide the car around. Quite juddery though which is not good for the 6psd and the harsh engagement isn't mechanically friendly either (but what makes this kit fun to drive and the diff work well). But with approx OEM torque output I finished this off in 18K miles. I could have cried but then again I do like my hard starts out of t-junctions, fast gear change at high rpm and the occasional mild kick (just the one )
Bargain. Have you got any pics of the plates?Buy my hks twin plate clutch and flywheel then dude i doubt you will weqr it out for a year or 2
500 and its yous
or new s15 fly is 350 (heapest ive found) an clutch for proablly 300+