Whiteline Suspension Alignment

What type of roads would that set up be good for?

Touring would be normal road driving. Race would be track. If you are talking specific road quality, those settings are used in both Oz and the UK.

I've got Touring and want them changed to Sport

Blast from the past....

Are these settings degrees/min/seconds?

1.5deg = 1deg and 50 mins?
OR
1.5deg = 1deg 30 mins?

(Obviously there are 60mins in a degree.)

Its just that most of the laser alignment kit that wheel shops use are in d/m/s. And the shop that I have been using arent very good with the kit and didnt even understand d/m/s. So when I gave them a setup they had no idea how to match the figures up. (The selection of decent wheel shops is pretty shocking in my area).

Also, why is toe measured in mm? The kit we used measured in d/m/s again.

1.5 deg is 1deg 30 mins.

Just go for 1 deg toe in across the rack. WOrks fine for me.

Ive got mine set to Touring from there settings and it drives very nice

Matt_S said:

1.5 deg is 1deg 30 mins.

Just go for 1 deg toe in across the rack. WOrks fine for me.

Click to expand...

When you say across the rack? You mean total rear toe-in of 1deg?

I think i am running 0.8 deg each side.

Yeh. Across the rack.

To be honest, I looked at the whieline settings and thought - ahh fcuk it. I know roughly what difference the toe makes with the drift car experience. The settings I looked at said zero toe

And toe in gives the car more turn in at the front and stability at the rear, so I went for half a degree on each corner. 1 degree across the rack :thumbs:

What alignment arms do you need for this?

I'd say the toe rods mate:

http://www.driftworks.com/shop/p359/Driftworks-Toe-rods-S13,S14,S15/product_info.html

Bumping an old thread, I'm interested what the "P" and "D" mean in the caster column.

Is it something to do with bushing material? the desired application (drift etc) perhaps?

To revive an old thread instead of making a new one, im getting my car alligned next week! On the rear i have all the arms needed for that and on the front i have a set of DW Tension Rods and Nismo LCA. RUnning Tein SS all around. Now.. the settings found in the first post are those still viable? Because when im getting the car alligned, i hope to set it correct in 1 go Any advice you guys can give me?

I drive it fairly hard and roads are good here, occasional track here and there.

Yes, they certainly are. I have recently had mine set up to touring specs but with 2.1 deg rear camber and the grip level is silly. If you like sliding the car around then certainly go for less rear camber!

Im certainly looking into more grip then slip:wack:

I had the alligment measured and its totally off, hence i get it re-alligned and set it for more grippy specs. Cheers craig!

Yep around -2.0 to -2.5 rear camber is good for the front... so much less understeer

Toe - personally I'd keep it neutral as it's not something I mess with but you can always start neutral and have a play...

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Nevermind, found out the Endlink on the drivers side is FUBAR, going to replace those, together with a nice ARB to go with it!